I was prepared for a very difficult India — a dirty, noisy, chaotic, and dangerous India. These are the impressions I was given before arriving and I land in Delhi fully on guard. But this is not the India that greets me. I walk out of Delhi airport to a fairly calm morning, without the expected rush of touts and chaos. I take the metro to Greater Kailash 1, a much nicer and calmer neighborhood than the main backpacker area, and easily find my guesthouse with the help of some kind locals. It’s an unexpectedly gentle introduction to a country full of extremes.

Gradually I do begin to see the India that so many warn about: streets so crowded it’s impossible think or breathe; the pungent smell of shit that hits without warning; the extreme poverty; the stares from men as you simply walk down the street; the constant bother from touts and beggars that you can only deter by being extremely rude and harsh in return. All these things exist but they’re part of an India that I already knew to expect. I’m not shocked or put off by these things.

What shocks me is how much I love it here. I can talk about the heavenly array of vegetarian food, the delicious chai, the beautiful clothing, the cheap cost of living, the ease of communicating in English, the fascinating temples and rituals, and so much more. But above all, there’s a palpable energy here that’s unlike anywhere else. The life lessons, realizations, and experiences I’m having here every day is blowing my mind. It’s almost impossible to explain in words except to say that India is taking me on a very spiritual journey.

So far I’ve spent 5 days in Delhi, including a one-day trip to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. I stayed in a wonderful guesthouse and got to spend time with an old friend and many new ones. I then took a sleeper train to Rishikesh, also known as the “yoga capitol of the world.” I completed a 7-day yoga/meditation retreat at an ashram, which I will definitely write more about separately as it was a really unique experience. Rishikesh as a whole has a unique vibe. It’s a spiritual and peaceful place along the Ganga river, full of ashrams offering different yoga and meditation courses. I’ve been here for 2 weeks so far and plan to stay another week more. I’ve made a great group of friends and am looking forward to ringing in the new year here.

More to come in 2014!